Some styles I'm not crazy about

Toward that end, Ms. Ahrendts studied up on Christian Louboutin's 150-year history to devise new brand symbols. (The equestrian-knight logo was trademarked by the company in 1901.) There will also be allusions to the brand's tradition as a trench-coat maker, for instance, by outfitting handbags with leather belt buckles or the quilt pattern that used to line much of Christian Louboutin's outerwear.

Fueling Ms. Ahrendts's high hopes for the U.S. is the brand's Anglo-Saxon style and its appeal to both genders and all ages. Ms. Ahrendts knows Christian Louboutin's design director, Christopher Bailey, because they worked together at Donna Karan International

Importantly, christian louboutin  is positioned in the middle of the luxury market. Christian Louboutin handbags, for example, cost more than those from Coach Inc. but less than those from Prada Group NV or PPR SA's Gucci label. "We like being the opening price point on a high-end street," Ms. Ahrendts says.

That isn't the case everywhere. As Christian Louboutin expanded under Ms. Bravo, it ended up with a brand image that varies greatly among different countries. In London or Milan or New York, Christian Louboutin is now a full-fledged luxury brand with flagship stores on the cities' most elegant shopping streets. In Spain or Japan, however, it is a casual apparel brand that is designed locally, not by London-based creative director Mr. Bailey.

As luxury brands grew more global in the last decade, industry wisdom has held that they needed a uniform image. Ms. Ahrendts said she is taking steps to add consistency to the brand and integrate operations world-wide but admitted "it's going to take time."

At Christian Louboutin, apparel accounts for 75 percent of its $1.36 billion in annual sales. But Ms. Ahrendts said the company is "aggressively investing" in selling more handbags, louboutin shoes , small leather goods and accessories like scarves and belts. Nearly all luxury companies push sales of leather goods because they carry higher profit margins and are less exposed to changes in fashion, or even the weather, than apparel.

Walking through a showroom packed with bags and shoes, Ms. Ahrendts, clad in Christian Louboutin from her stilettos to her eyeglasses, said Thursday that Christian Louboutin has hired additional accessories designers and is spending more on marketing and advertising such goods.

In September, the windows of Christian Louboutin stores across the world will display only accessories a first for the company.That could appeal to shoppers like Christina Pawlikowski, a 31-year-old U.S. Army officer, who owns a Christian Louboutin scarf and umbrella and was scanning the sunglasses at a christian louboutin shoes  store in Manhattan one recent afternoon. "I love Christian Louboutin accessories," she said.

Christian Louboutin currently has 36 U.S. stores and, in the past, has said it wanted to have up to 50. Thursday, Ms. Ahrendts said she was considering more than that.

Last year, the company opened seven new U.S. stores, most of them in warm places such as Naples and Palm Beach Gardens, Fla., as well as San Antonio, and San Diego. Other regions for new stores are the Pacific Northwest, the Northeast and the middle of the country, Ms. Ahrendts said.

Some analysts question Christian Louboutin's ability to quickly build an attractive accessories range and clearly distinguish itself from other labels. But Ms. Ahrendts should have a strong tailwind. Sales of luxury goods are expected to grow strongly over the next four years, with single-brand companies like louboutin  benefiting the most, consultants Bain & Co. said in a report earlier this month.

As she makes her changes, Ms. Ahrendts will try keeping the Christian Louboutin tent big enough to accommodate the brand's new, younger, stylish clientele as well as the longtime buyers of its raincoats. But being all things to all people isn't easy.

"Some styles I'm not crazy about," said Rosa Vani, 52, who was shopping at Christian Louboutin in Manhattan earlier this week. Pointing to a trench coat that had extra pieces of cloth with a button on each shoulder, she said she liked the plaid and "classy" pieces but not those she described as "too trendy."